The lands where Furness Vale stands were once royal hunting preserves. West of the River Goyt was Macclesfield Forest and to the East, the Forest of High Peak. These were not necessarily woodlands but game reserves where wild boar and wolves once roamed. A country familiar to the royalty and aristocracy of the day.
Kiln Knoll
Furness
Vale is very much a product of the Industrial Revolution. Prior to
1794 when Mr. Gratrix opened his printworks, there was little here
apart from Yeardsley Hall and a few scattered farms. The history of
the area does however go back a little farther. If we follow the
footpath from
Furness Vale, over Broadhey Hill heading towards Higher Disley, we pass two mounds on the left, just before reaching Redmoor Farm. This feature is known as Kiln Knoll and is marked on some older maps as a barrow. There is some disagreement about this. The Derbyshire Historic Environment Record (DCC) describes this as a Bronze Age barrow, c2000 years of age. Historic England however, suggests that it is either a medieval quarry or a lime kiln from the period 1500 to 1750 AD. We have several members and friends who are professional archaeologists and we sought their opinions. Their view is that this is indeed a barrow and that it has at some time been robbed of either treasures or of the stone that lined the tombs leaving the hollowed out mounds seen today. Bronze Age barrows are common, there are thousands in England. The hollow mounds left after tomb robbing were often used for localised lime burning. This would give an explanation for the name Kiln Knoll and for the claim that it was a lime kiln, Without an archaeological exploration, its origin must remain a mystery.
In sight of Kiln Knoll and just 400 metres away is Buxton Old Road, part of the one time Roman Road between Manchester and Buxton. Most of this route follows the familiar straight line except for the section between Disley and Whaley Bridge. The original Roman alignment has been largely obscured by the construction of the turnpike road in 1725.
Beyond the Roma Road and outside the area of Furness Vale is the Dipping Stone, high up on Whaley Moor. This is a wayside or boundary cross from the Saxon or Medieval period. Its age is uncertain but will be between 500 and 1200 years.
From the Roman Road, a number of tracks led down into the valley to serve Yeardsley Hall and various farms. Until construction of Buxton Road, now the A6 in 1804, this was the only access.
Yeardsley Hall was the ancestral home of the Jodrell family, local landowners. The present building is of various periods but does incorporate a number of Elizabethan features. The first mention of a hoouse on this site is from the 13th century when the King gave two oak trees for its repair. The house may be older but its origin is unknown. Yeardsley Hall was partly dismantled in the 17th century. The intention was to rebuild a grander house but this never happened. The history of the Jodrell family has been documented and the most detailed period was that of the Civil War.
Edmund
Jodrell leaned towards the Royalist cause but refused to contribute
£40 to their war chest. When the Parliamentarians arrived at
Yeardsley in 1642, the demanded a £100 tribute but this too was
declined. As a result, Edmund was imprisoned at Stockport Castle and
later moved to “gentlemen’s quarters” at Nantwich. Eventually
he relented and was released on payment of £60 and a commitment
towards Cromwell. During his absence, Captain Zanchie (Sankey)
occupied Yeardsley Hall and billeted his troops in one of the barns.
The house was ransacked and among the goods removed were: one drum, a
musket, a suit of armour, two rapiers, two great saddles, a book, a
pair of gloves and six silver spoons. Altogether goods valued at
almost £100 had been taken, worth about £18,000 today. Jodrell was
successful in claiming compensation which was paid in full.
It
is interesting that and inventory of the property was taken at about
the same time and this shows that Yeardsley Hall was already a
working farm. There was a corn barn, a hay barn, a kiln with a malt
chamber, an ox house and a calf house. There was a slaughterhouse, a
stable, a cockhouse, henhouse and duckhouse and a swinhouse. A piec
of building adjoined the cockhouse for the mewing of hawks and
keeping of spaniels. Large stone buildings remain today, converted to
homes but Yeardsley must have been a much more substantial property
in the 17th century. Mewing by the way, simply means
housing.
The Jodrell family owned considerable lands but in later times these were gradually sold off. The Grimshaws took a large part of the estate when establishing themselves at Errwood Hall in the 19th century. Further sales in the early 20th century was the remainder of the Jodrell lands sold in lots at auction, often to the existing tenant farmers. In 1904, the Jodrells retreated to the newly built Taxal Lodge at Whaley Bridge and Yeardsley Hall became two separate residences.
Some of the farms have long histories. Ringstones was recorded in the 16th century. The origin of its name is unknown. A stone circle might be expected but has never been recorded.
Diglee is first mentioned in Jodrell deeds of 1635 although it is 1745 before there is a record of a farmhouse. The original building replaced in the late 19th century, still stands. It is an unusual building which clings to the hillside and combines barns, livestock housing and family accommodation on different levels.
Nearby Broadhey Farm dates from the 17th century although only a small stone barn remains of the original buildings. The framhouse was high up on Broadhey Hill but mining activity lower down the valley diverted its water supply. No longer sustainable, a new farmhouse was built at a lower level in 1870. The large stone barns alongside have now been converted to housing.
The nearest farm to Yeardsley Hall was Brownhough, pronounced “Brannock”. Another 17th century farm, it’s interesting to see how its name has been corrupted over time. There are references in 1611 to The Browne Hough and to Brannough; Brounough in 1620 and at other times to Brown Oak and Bran Oak.
At the northern end of the village is Carr Farm. This was recorded ass early as 1583. The name incidentally is Old English Kjarr meaning a brushwood marsh. It is situated alongside the River Goyt. Tragedy struck in 1663 when the family was struck down by the plague: “Joan, wife of Nicholas Hadfield of Carr in Disley was buried on 2nd June. Nicholas of Carr in Disley was buried on the 8th. Nicholas Hadfield son of Nicholas Hadfield last buried was buried on the 13th” Carr Farm found a little fame during World War I when two escaped German prisoners were found hiding on the farm.
Within the Jodrell estate, the coal mine at Furness Clough was the longest worked in the Cheshire Coalfield. There is evidence of mining as early asa the mid 17th century. A cache of gold was found in an outbuilding at Yeardsley Hall, hidden by one of the estate workers. It had been stolen from the mine. It was of course, iron pyrites or fool’s gold and worthless. Roger Jodrell declined to take any action against his employee saying that his “crime” was insignificant.
The area of Furness Clough makes an interesting study of industrial history. The mine wasn’t worked consistently until 1804 when the first lease was signed
Throughout the 18th century, an iron furnace was worked. This was on Jodrell land. We don’t know the precise location but it was probably just to the rear of the present day War Memorial. Small local furnaces or bloomers were common throughout Britain at the time and had been since Roman times. These were usually small, no more than about 1½ metres high and supplied the needs of their locality. That at Furness Vale was probably much larger as “Jodrell Pig” as its output was known was supplied to foundries in South Yorkshire and the East Midlands. The iron ore was probably extracted from within the coal mine which would have also produced a ready supply of fuel to fire the furnace.
It
was this furnace that gave the village its name. “Furnace” or
“The Furnace” appears on early maps and the last record of its
usage was in 1842. The name “Furness Vale” appears to have been
gradually adopted from about 1810.
The names of the first lessees of the mine are not known although by 1830 it was being worked by Mr Boothman of Bothams Hall, The underground workings were laid with 19 inch gauge tracks and these were extended down to a wharf on the newly opened Peak Forest Canal where coal was transferred to narrowboats for shipment, probably to the limekilns at Bugsworth This tramway was operating as early as 1808 and passed beneath the newly constructed Buxton Road Turnpike through a tunnel.
A limekiln was also worked during the 19th century although little is known of this, not even its location although it was possibly on the site of the earlier iron furnace.
The colliery was also owned for a period by Levi and Elijah Hall, who operated a number of mines in this area. In 1890 in conjunction with a partner called Hurley, a brick and tile works was founded. This was offered for sale in 1904 and eventually Mr R. E. Knowles purchased both brickyard and mine.
Like the furnace beforehand, the brickyard was largely self sufficient for a large quantity of fireclay was found between the coal seams. Knowles specialised in firebricks and firebacks. Demand for coal declined, especially as the lime kilns at Bugsworth fell out of use so the tramway to the canal was diverted to a new exchange siding on the railway and mechanised with a cable haulage system. This allowed for the dispatch of finished goods by rail.
The mine closed in 1963 by which time much of the coal had been worked out and it needed to be constantly pumped to keep water at bay. The brickyard continued to operate using imported raw materials and only ceased operation about ten years ago.
Furness Clough wasn’t the only coal mine. Beard and Bugsworth Colliery, usually known as Lady Pit was the largest. It was actually in Buxworth although its offices were in the village. Operated by Levi and Elijah Hall, it closed in 1903 when it had been largely worked out. All that remains today is a large ventilation shaft at the end of Dolly Lane.
There were two mines at Bank End. One of these was accessed by a number of shafts just north of St.John’s Church. There was an incident just a few years ago when a digger, excavating a garden, nearly fell into one of the shafts. It was safely capped by the Coal Authority. The other mine was farther north, alongside the canal. A small local working was at one time marked by an engine house on the canal bank.
The other local mine was at Ringstones, close to the farm of the same name. There were two vertical shafts linked by a tramway and coal was transported down to Bridgemont by a continuous cable, perhaps an aerial ropeway. There is a stone tower in Ringstones Clough, a relic of this system. The mine closed in 1898 and the equipment sold off. The capped main shaft may still be seen in the middle of the present day caravan site
Furness Vale had two stone quarries which provided the building materials for construction of the village. The large one at Bank End was in two parts but had closed by 1930. The other at the southern end of the village continued to operate until the 1960s. It must have also supplied stone for use farther afield as it had two canal wharves, both linked by tunnel beneath the road and railway
The other major industry in Furness Vale was the Printworks. This was founded by Samuel Gratrix in 1794. We don’t know why he chose what was a then a very isolated location without a readily available labour force. It was however, alongside the River Goyt so it had a good water supply and the Peak Forest Canal was under construction. This opened two years later and provided transport between the Printworks and Manchester. Poor road access ceased to be a problem with the opening of the turnpike in 1804. Gratrix built a row of workers houses facing the new canal and within a few minutes walk of his works. It was his enterprise that was the catalyst for the growth of the village.
The Peak Forest Canal gained its Act of Parliament in 1792 and construction began immediately. The work was carried out by the manual labour of teams of itinerant “navvies” and the waterway opened just four years later. Construction of the locks at Marple took a little longer but temporary rail tracks allowed for through traffic to commence. Furness Vale had direct transport to Manchester. Much of the canal’s traffic was from the lime kilns at Bugsworth and coal to supply them. At its peak 40 boats a day passed through Furness Vale. The canal also carried general goods, especially prior to the opening of the railway and for a year or two a passenger service between Dukinfield and Whaley Bridge.
The Manchester and Buxton Turnpike was constructed in 1725 but between Disley and Whaley Bridge presented a long climb over Whaley Moor. This was a challenge for the developing stage coach services and in 1804, a new route following a level contour opened. Passing through Furness Vale, this opened up the new community to the outside world. The village developed quickly as houses and shops were built alongside the new road together with the Soldier Dick public house which opened in 1805. The pub wasn’t a coaching house but it was a point where stage coaches would pick up and set down passengers. Not many of the 15 daily services would call here however, for the fares were well beyond the means of all but a few residents.
Another link was established in 1731 when the Thornsett Turnpike Trust built a new road between New Mills and Furness Vale. This largely followed Marsh Lane, an ancient route which continued towards Bugsworth. This was extended to cross the River Goyt and followed the route that eventually became known as Station Road.
The railway opened in 1857 and like the canal beforehand, was built by manual labour in only four years. The station never had goods facilities, the later siding being for the sole use of the Brickyard.
As the village grew, so too did the businesses that served its population. Most people worked in the locality or at least within walking distance and all of their everyday needs were met by local tradesmen. It was normal for communities such as this to be virtually self sufficient, with only such items as furniture or clothing having to be sought elsewhere. We know of thirty addresses that at one time or another have been shops. A number of shops supplied food including the village’s own co-operative Society. In addition we had blacksmiths, drapers, hairdressers, ironmongers, toyshop, a cobbler, tailor, newsagent and a cycle maker; even a yeast merchant. There was a cafe, a bank, post office and a doctor’s surgery and of course, a fish and chip shop. Three pubs refreshed the villagers. All three were unique in their own right but one in particular was unusual. The Traveller’s Call had a second name ; The Jolly Sailor and both seemed to be in official use at the same time. This was a small beerhouse next to the canal bridge built in 1839 by Joseph Wild of Disley. The building also included a shop, and a cottage and an engraving shop above. In 1864, it was bought by Joseph Holt of Cheetham Hill. Now a well known Manchester brewery, Holt’s only owned 20 houses at the time and it’s surprising to find such a remote outpost. Perhaps the beer was transported by canal. The licensing Act of 1904 was an attempt by the Government to reduce the number of beerhouses and pubs (and drunkeness). It was often known as the Compensation Act as licensees were compensated for loss of livelihood. In 1908 magistrates refused to renew the license of the Traveller’s Call on the grounds that it was a disorderly house. This was a common ploy and the pub closed. The then owner, Mrs Roberts continued to live there until it was sold in 1922 to Mrs Wharmby who re-opened it as a greengrocery business.
The
Soldier Dick replaced a pub at Stoneheads that lost most of its trade
when the turnpike was diverted and the license was transferred. The
name of the early inn is uncertain but it was said to have stood for
300 years. There is a legend that it was transported stone by stone
but strangely the original building still stood long afterwards.
This may have arisen because John Warren wrote in his diary that Sam
Bowers came down from the Posting House with a cart full of stone.
Mr Bowers was licensee of the Soldier Dick but not until 1850.
The
origin of the Soldier Dick’s name is a well known legend which I
won’t repeat. We will probably never know how much truth there is
in the romantic story.
In 1829, the Oddfellows, a mutual society and a forerunner of the welfare state, founded the Foundation Stone of Truth Lodge in Furness Vale. They established themselves in the top floor of the Soldier Dick which was converted for their use. A concave dome was created in the ceiling and housed a bell which would be rung to summon members to meetings. A sliding hatch in the doorway allowed officers to verify who was seeking admission and in 1840, an artist was commissioned to paint murals on the walls. These depicted scenes of English armies at battles of the Civil War, at Crecy and fighting Napoleon. The Oddfellows provided benefits for its members at time of sickness or other distress but was a very formal organisation. Wearing sashes and other regalia, they would often march in procession at times of Coronations, Jubilees or other occasions. At its height, two thirds of the village population were members. Although they were largely superseded by social welfare after the War, they did continue to meet for a while, transferring to the Institute in 1961.
The Soldier Dick was eventually modernised and the top floor converted to letting bedrooms. The murals still exist, carefully covered and conserved. We don’t know what will become of them now that the pub has closed with planning application for conversion to apartments outstanding.
The third pub, The Crossings, started life in 1868 as the Station Inn, a two storey building incorporating a lock-up shop. It was built for Samuel Hall, a relative of Levi and Elijah Hall, coal owners. The pub remained in that family until 1907. It was rebuilt in the late 19th century with a large function room added in a third floor. It became the Station Hotel.
The pub was offered for sale in 1920 in auction at the Macclesfield Arms. The sale included the pub and shop. The shop was let at £14 6s per annum with the tenant paying the rates. The 999 year lease had begin on 29th September 1864; the ground rent was still £4 1s. An annual payment was made to the London & North Western Railway “for the right to light”.
One early licensee by the name of Jackson was grandfather of John Jackson, the village butcher. He had a brother who also lived at the pub. Every decent hostelry has a ghost and the Station Hotel was no exception. The spectre was described as a hunchback, just like Mr Jackson’s brother.
Jackson ran a “station wagon” to transport people to dances held in the function room.
The churches played a major role in the lives of the people and in the development of the community. In Furness Vale, there was no regular religious activity until 1812 when Methodists started meeting in private homes. In 1822, Mr Mellor of Diglee Farm built a row of three cottages on Yeardsley Lane and rented one to the Methodist congregation for £5 per year. This is now my home. At first the Furnace Methodist Chapel had just thirteen members although this number was to gradually grow. Besides regular worship, there was a Sunday School and an evening class for adult education. For many children, this was their only opportunity to learn the basics of reading, writing and arithmetic. By 1840, the congregation had outgrown their modest premises and the first purpose built Chapel and Sunday School opened on Station Road. As the village population expanded, so the chapel was twice rebuilt, the present building dating from 1885. Sadly, the church closed in August 2002, unable to meet legal requirements for disabled access.
Meanwhile, the Anglican Church followed a similar pattern although this was many years later. In 1865, Mr Saxby owner of the Printworks converted a barn at Lodge Farm for use by St. John's Mission and Sunday School. Education played a major role in the Mission's activities and its day school served the village until Furness Vale Board School opened in 1876. More than 100 pupils transferred from Lodge Farm as well as a number from the Methodist school. . The Church had long desired permanent premises and a building fund was launched. Mr Jodrell contributed £500 as well as the land. St.John's Church opened in March 1912. It was designed to have a tower but was modified when funds ran short.
In 1929 Furness Vale and parts of Whaley Bridge were within Cheshire. As moves were afoot to resolve the anomalies that this created, the press enjoyed describing the situation.
The area with a population of around 3000 was governed by two county councils, one urban district council and two rural district councils. There were three parish councils, two boards of guardians and a joint parks committee. There were three separate water supply schemes and although there was a joint sewage authority, three councils were responsible for the actual sewers. Rates differed between each of the four parishes and there were two assessment authorities. There were two elementary schools but both were in Derbyshire.
Furness Vale with a population of about 750 had neither its own council nor parish. A brook divided the village between the parishes of Disley and Yeardsley-cum-Whaley hence the public services were provided by two authorities.
Whaley Bridge was also divided ecclesiastically between three parishes, two dioceses, two archdeaconries, and two rural deaneries and also between the provinces of Canterbury and York.
There were two licensing authorities and pubs kept different hours on opposite sides of the River Goyt. Whaley Bridge had two policemen, one for each side of the river.
100 years ago Furness Vale was situated in four Parishes: Disley, Taxal, New Mills and Glossop - and in two Dioceses: Chester and Southwell!
These divisions resulted in the duplication of many official posts with some officers having very light duties indeed. This farcical situation was largely resolved when Whaley Bridge and Furness Vale were transferred from Cheshire to Derbyshire in 1936.
These boundary changes, and those of 1974 that created the Metropolitan Counties were largely administrative. The traditional county boundaries have never been fully abolished so although we refer to Furness Vale as being in Derbyshire, we might still use a Cheshire address if we wish.
Furness Vale’s football club was first recorded in 1883 when they drew 1-1 in a match against Greenheys, a team from Chorlton on Medlock. They have had many successes in their 140 year history and currently play in the Hope Valley League. This year they are league champions and have won two cup competitions. The club has been in existence longer that the likes of Arsenal, Liverpool and Newcastle.
James Hastings worked at Furness Vale Printworks and was a pioneering cyclist. In 1867 he was a founder member of the High Peak Velocipede Club, Britain’s first cycling club. He gained fame by writing for specialist magazines and presenting his own designs and modifications. Members often built their own machines.
Another Printworks employee was William McBride. In 1900 he left to join the police in London where he soon transferred to the CID. Rising to the rank of Inspector, he was in charge of the photographic department at Scotland Yard and became an expert in the development of fingerprinting. McBride was also skilled in the art of disguise and photographs show him in some very disreputable looking guises. He retired in 1930 due to ill health from the rank of Sub Divisional Inspector.
The above article is the text from a presentation given to Disley Local History Society on 25th May 2023 by David Easton
